There's a moment in April in the North Pennines when everything changes. The light shifts. The moors wake up. The air starts to fill with new sounds. For anyone who travels in search of wildlife encounters and landscapes worth photographing, Spring in this corner of County Durham offers something genuinely extraordinary. And yet it remains one of England's best kept secrets. Mellwaters Barn Cottages sits right in the middle of it - a quiet, comfortable base in the heart of the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, near Barnard Castle in Teesdale. Here's what's waiting for you when you pay us a Spring time visit.
Photographers come to the North Pennines for many reasons, but the light is always part of the conversation. The upland landscape of the Pennines - think open moorland, wide valleys, uncluttered horizons means that the sky is always part of your frame. Golden hour here is something else entirely. In Spring, when the sun rises early and the low-angle light catches the still-brown moorland and the bright new green of the valley floors, the visual contrast is extraordinary. Our farm and self catering cottages sits in a valley looking out across Teesdale, with views that change entirely with the weather and the time of day. Guests who come for a long weekend often find themselves setting an alarm they'd never normally set just to be outside with a camera before breakfast.
Spring in Teesdale and the North Pennines is one of the finest wildlife watching seasons anywhere in England. The combination of upland moorland, riverside habitat, ancient meadows and limestone grassland creates an extraordinary range of species in a relatively compact area.
In early spring the waders begin returning to their breeding areas; Lapwing, Snipe, Oystercatcher, Redshank, Curlew and the handsome Golden Plover all breed here, with Dippers dashing up and down the
narrow becks. The curlew in particular with its long bubbling call carrying across the open moorland is one of the defining sounds of a Pennines Spring, and increasingly rare elsewhere in England.
The list of birds to be seen; Wheatears, Ring Ouzels, Black Grouse, Peregrines, Kestrels and the occasional Short-eared Owl. For the truly dedicated, spring also means Black Grouse leks. There is nothing more extraordinary than getting up at the crack of dawn to listen and observe the lekking before dawn. At first no more than an unearthly gentle whooshing noise, as the inky darkness gives way to dawn, the Black Cocks can be seen gathered in their ancient combat, dominant birds posturing and asserting, younger birds challenging
For a wildlife photographer, it's the kind of encounter that really defines your trip.
The beautiful Spring gentian can emerge as early as April with a vivid, almost improbable blue against the pale limestone grassland of
Upper Teesdale. The Moor House Upper Teesdale National Nature Reserve is famous for the rare spring gentian, as well as being home to England's largest juniper wood. The combination of
ancient limestone geology and centuries of traditional farming has preserved a botanical habitat found nowhere else in England. Arctic- alpine plants that have survived here since the last Ice Age.
For macro photographers in particular, the wildflower meadows of Teesdale in late April and May are extraordinary. The species richness per square metre rivals anything you'll find in the Swiss Alps.
From its origin high on the heather-covered fells, the River Tees continues to swell and gain speed until the moment it breaks free and plunges some 21 metres into the river below at High Force. In Spring, when snowmelt is still feeding the upper Tees, the volume and power of the falls is at its peak and for long-exposure photography, the combination of white water, dark rock and surrounding woodland is exceptional. Go early on a weekday morning in Spring and you'll often have the viewing area almost entirely to yourself.
The Bowlees Visitor Centre is the natural starting point for a day's wildlife watching and photography in Upper Teesdale. From here you have easy access to Low Force waterfall and a network of countryside walks with knowledgeable staff including botanists and archaeologists who can point you towards exactly what' s emerging and where to find.
The walk from Bowlees to High Force along the riverbank is one of the finest short nature walks in the North of England through ancient juniper woodland, past the Wynch Bridge suspension footbridge,
alongside the tumbling River Tees.
The views from Mellwaters Barn itself across the valley towards Bowes and up towards the open moor change constantly with the light and weather. The purpose-built paths around the farm mean that even guests with limited mobility can get out into the landscape with a camera. Spring mornings at the farm, before the world wakes up, are something guests come back for year after year.
When to come: Late April and May are the peak weeks for both wildflowers and breeding birds. Early April offers the best chance of Black Grouse leks and the first Spring gentians.
How long to stay: Three nights is the minimum stay in Blue Tit and Kingfisher cottages but only 1 night's stay is required Wren and Robin cottages specifically for those walking one of the fabulous walking routes close by. Most nature and photography visitors usually wish they'd booked longer. Five or even seven nights gives you plenty of time to be patient with the weather and wait for the light.
What to bring: Layers, waterproofs and walking boots you trust. The weather in the North Pennines in Spring can change quickly and the high ground is exposed. A tripod is worth the luggage space for
waterfall and low-light shooting.
Accessibility: The farm has purpose-built level-access paths, and much of the Teesdale wildlife and botanical interest is reachable via relatively flat riverside walking. The Bowlees Visitor Centre is fully accessible.
Mellwaters Barn has four cottages; Wren and Robin Cottage sleep two, Blue Tit and Kingfisher Cottage sleep four. All are fully equipped and accessible, recently refreshed with new interiors and quality beds.
Dogs are welcome in Blue Tit and Wren Cottage - useful if your four- legged walking companion tends to join you on your wildlife trips.
Spring availability fills faster than you might expect, particularly around Easter and the May bank holidays. If you have specific dates in mind, it's worth getting in touch sooner rather than later.
Call us on 01833 628181 or check availability and book direct with our best price guaranteed when you book with us directly.
📍East Mellwaters Farm, Stainmore Road, Bowes, Barnard Castle, County Durham, DL12 9RH
